The use of several different types of paint, coupled with several proprietary coatings, makes repair of damaged and deteriorated areas particularly difficult. Paint finishes are not necessarily compatible with each other. The following general rules for coating compatibility are included for information and are not necessarily listed in order of importance:
Any of the finishes may be present at any given time, and repairs may have been made using material from several different type coatings. Some detailed information for the identification of each finish is necessary to ensure the topcoat application does not react adversely with the undercoat. A simple test can be used to confirm the nature of the coatings present.
The following procedure aids in identification of the paint finish. Apply a coating of engine oil (MIL SPEC, MIL-PRF-7808, turbine oil, or equivalent) to a small area of the surface to be checked. Old nitrocellulose finishes soften within a period of a few minutes. Acrylic and epoxy finishes show no effects.
If still not identified, wipe a small area of the surface in question with a rag wet with MEK. The MEK picks up the pigment from an acrylic finish, but has no effect on an epoxy coating. Just wipe the surface, and do not rub. Heavy rubbing picks up even epoxy pigment from coatings that are not thoroughly cured. Do not use MEK on nitrocellulose finishes. Figure provides a solvent test to identify the coating on an aircraft.
The first rule, as with the start of any paint project, is to wash and wipe down the area with a degreaser and silicone wax remover before starting to sand or abrade the area.
If a whole panel or section within a seam line can be refinished during a touchup, it eliminates having to match and blend the topcoat to an existing finish. The area of repair should be stripped to a seam line and the finish completely redone from wash primer to the topcoat, as applicable. The paint along the edge of the stripped area should be hand-sanded wet and feathered with a 320-grade paper.
Since then, other substitute chemical strippers were tested, from formic acid to benzyl alcohol. None of them were found to be particularly effective in removing multiple layers of paint. Most of them were not friendly to the environment.
One of the more recent entries into the chemical stripping business is an environmentally friendly product known as EFS-2500, which works by breaking the bond between the substrate and primer. This leads to a secondary action that causes the paint to lift both primer and top coat off the surface as a single film. Once the coating is lifted, it is easily removed with a squeegee or high-pressure water.
This product differs from conventional chemical strippers by not melting the coatings. Cleanup is easier, and the product complies with EPA rules on emissions. Additionally, it passed Boeing testing specifications related to sandwich corrosion, immersion corrosion, and hydrogen embrittlement. EFS-2500 has no chlorinated components, is non-acidic, nonflammable, nonhazardous, biodegradable, and has minimal to no air pollution potential.
The stripper can be applied using existing common methods, such as airless spraying, brushing, rolling, or immersion in a tank. It works on all metals, including aluminum, magnesium, cadmium plate, titanium, wood, fiberglass, ceramic, concrete, plaster, and stone.
PMB is most effective on metal surfaces, but it has been used successfully on composite surfaces after it was found to produce less visual damage than removing the paint by sanding.
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- Old type zinc chromate primer may be used directly for touchup of bare metal surfaces and for use on interior finishes. It may be overcoated with wash primers if it is in good condition. Acrylic lacquer finishes do not adhere to this material.
- Modified zinc chromate primer does not adhere satisfactorily to bare metal. It must never be used over a dried film of acrylic nitrocellulose lacquer.
- Nitrocellulose coatings adhere to acrylic finishes, but the reverse is not true. Acrylic nitrocellulose lacquers may not be used over old nitrocellulose finishes.
- Acrylic nitrocellulose lacquers adhere poorly to bare metal and both nitrocellulose and epoxy finishes. For best results, the lacquers must be applied over fresh, successive coatings of wash primer and modified zinc chromate. They also adhere to freshly applied epoxy coatings (dried less than 6 hours).
- Epoxy topcoats adhere to any paint system that is in good condition, and may be used for general touchup, including touchup of defects in baked enamel coatings.
- Old wash primer coats may be overcoated directly with epoxy finishes. A new second coat of wash primer must be applied if an acrylic finish is to be applied.
- Old acrylic finishes may be refinished with new acrylic if the old coating is softened using acrylic nitrocellulose thinner before touchup.
- Damage to epoxy finishes can best be repaired by using more epoxy, since neither of the lacquer finishes stick to the epoxy surface. In some instances, air-drying enamels may be used for touchup of epoxy coatings if edges of damaged areas are abraded with fine sandpaper.
Paint Touchup
Paint touchup may be required on an aircraft following repair to the surface substrate. Touchup may also be used to cover minor topcoat damage, such as scratches, abrasions, permanent stains, and fading of the trim colors. One of the first steps is to identify the paint that needs to be touched up.Identification of Paint Finishes
Existing finishes on current aircraft may be any one of several types, a combination of two or more types, or combinations of general finishes with special proprietary coatings.Any of the finishes may be present at any given time, and repairs may have been made using material from several different type coatings. Some detailed information for the identification of each finish is necessary to ensure the topcoat application does not react adversely with the undercoat. A simple test can be used to confirm the nature of the coatings present.
The following procedure aids in identification of the paint finish. Apply a coating of engine oil (MIL SPEC, MIL-PRF-7808, turbine oil, or equivalent) to a small area of the surface to be checked. Old nitrocellulose finishes soften within a period of a few minutes. Acrylic and epoxy finishes show no effects.
If still not identified, wipe a small area of the surface in question with a rag wet with MEK. The MEK picks up the pigment from an acrylic finish, but has no effect on an epoxy coating. Just wipe the surface, and do not rub. Heavy rubbing picks up even epoxy pigment from coatings that are not thoroughly cured. Do not use MEK on nitrocellulose finishes. Figure provides a solvent test to identify the coating on an aircraft.
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| Chart for solvent testing of coating |
Surface Preparation for Touchup
In the case of a repair and touchup, once the aircraft paint coating has been identified, the surface preparation follows some basic rules.The first rule, as with the start of any paint project, is to wash and wipe down the area with a degreaser and silicone wax remover before starting to sand or abrade the area.
If a whole panel or section within a seam line can be refinished during a touchup, it eliminates having to match and blend the topcoat to an existing finish. The area of repair should be stripped to a seam line and the finish completely redone from wash primer to the topcoat, as applicable. The paint along the edge of the stripped area should be hand-sanded wet and feathered with a 320-grade paper.
For a spot repair that requires blending of the coating, an area about three times the area of the actual repair will need to be prepared for blending of the paint. If the damaged area is through the primer to the substrate, the repair area should be abraded with 320 aluminum oxide paper on a double-action (D/A) air sander. Then, the repair and the surrounding area should be wet sanded using the air sander fitted with 1500 wet paper. The area should then be wiped with a tack cloth prior to spraying.
Apply a crosscoat of epoxy primer to the bare metal area, following the material data sheet for drying and recoat times. Abrade the primer area lightly with 1500 wet or dry, and then abrade the unsanded area around the repair with cutting compound. Clean and wipe the area with a degreasing solvent, such as isopropyl alcohol, and then a tack cloth.
Mix the selected topcoat paint that is compatible for the repair. Apply two light coats over the sanded repair area, slightly extending the second coat beyond the first. Allow time for the first coat to flash before applying the second coat. Then, thin the topcoat by one-third to one-half with a compatible reducer and apply one more coat, extending beyond the first two coats. Allow to dry according to the material data sheet before buffing and polishing the blended area.
If the damage did not penetrate the primer, and only the topcoat is needed for the finish, complete the same steps that would follow a primer coat.
Paint touchup procedures generally are the same for almost any repair. The end result, however, is affected by numerous variables, which include the preparation, compatibility of the finishing materials, color match, selection of reducers and/or retarders based on temperature, and experience and expertise of the painter.
Before any chemical stripping can be performed, all areas of the aircraft not being stripped must be protected. The stripper manufacturer can recommend protective material for this purpose. This normally includes all window material, vents and static ports, rubber seals and tires, and composite components that may be affected by the chemicals.
The removal of paint from an aircraft, even a small single-engine model, involves not only the labor but a concern for the environment. You should recognize the impact and regulatory requirements that are necessary to dispose of the water and coating materials removed from the aircraft.
Apply a crosscoat of epoxy primer to the bare metal area, following the material data sheet for drying and recoat times. Abrade the primer area lightly with 1500 wet or dry, and then abrade the unsanded area around the repair with cutting compound. Clean and wipe the area with a degreasing solvent, such as isopropyl alcohol, and then a tack cloth.
Mix the selected topcoat paint that is compatible for the repair. Apply two light coats over the sanded repair area, slightly extending the second coat beyond the first. Allow time for the first coat to flash before applying the second coat. Then, thin the topcoat by one-third to one-half with a compatible reducer and apply one more coat, extending beyond the first two coats. Allow to dry according to the material data sheet before buffing and polishing the blended area.
If the damage did not penetrate the primer, and only the topcoat is needed for the finish, complete the same steps that would follow a primer coat.
Paint touchup procedures generally are the same for almost any repair. The end result, however, is affected by numerous variables, which include the preparation, compatibility of the finishing materials, color match, selection of reducers and/or retarders based on temperature, and experience and expertise of the painter.
Stripping the Finish
The most experienced painter, the best finishing equipment, and newest coatings, do not produce the desired finish on an aircraft if the surface was not properly prepared prior to refinishing. Surface preparation for painting of an entire aircraft typically starts with the removal of the paint. This is done not only for the weight reduction that is gained by stripping the many gallons of topcoats and primers, but for the opportunity to inspect and repair corrosion or other defects uncovered by the removal of the paint.Before any chemical stripping can be performed, all areas of the aircraft not being stripped must be protected. The stripper manufacturer can recommend protective material for this purpose. This normally includes all window material, vents and static ports, rubber seals and tires, and composite components that may be affected by the chemicals.
The removal of paint from an aircraft, even a small single-engine model, involves not only the labor but a concern for the environment. You should recognize the impact and regulatory requirements that are necessary to dispose of the water and coating materials removed from the aircraft.
Chemical Stripping
At one time, most chemical strippers contained methylene chloride, considered an environmentally acceptable chemical until 1990. It was very effective in removing multiple layers of paint. However, in 1990, it was listed as a toxic air contaminant that caused cancer and other medical problems and was declared a Hazardous Air Pollutant (HAP) by the EPA in the Clean Air Act Amendments of 1990.Since then, other substitute chemical strippers were tested, from formic acid to benzyl alcohol. None of them were found to be particularly effective in removing multiple layers of paint. Most of them were not friendly to the environment.
One of the more recent entries into the chemical stripping business is an environmentally friendly product known as EFS-2500, which works by breaking the bond between the substrate and primer. This leads to a secondary action that causes the paint to lift both primer and top coat off the surface as a single film. Once the coating is lifted, it is easily removed with a squeegee or high-pressure water.
This product differs from conventional chemical strippers by not melting the coatings. Cleanup is easier, and the product complies with EPA rules on emissions. Additionally, it passed Boeing testing specifications related to sandwich corrosion, immersion corrosion, and hydrogen embrittlement. EFS-2500 has no chlorinated components, is non-acidic, nonflammable, nonhazardous, biodegradable, and has minimal to no air pollution potential.
The stripper can be applied using existing common methods, such as airless spraying, brushing, rolling, or immersion in a tank. It works on all metals, including aluminum, magnesium, cadmium plate, titanium, wood, fiberglass, ceramic, concrete, plaster, and stone.
Plastic Media Blasting (PMB)
Plastic media blasting (PMB) is one of the stripping methods that reduces and may eliminate a majority of environmental pollution problems that can be associated with the earlier formulations of some chemical stripping. PMB is a dry abrasive blasting process designed to replace chemical paint stripping operations. PMB is similar to conventional sand blasting except that soft, angular plastic particles are used as the blasting medium. The process has minimum effect on the surface under the paint because of the plastic medium and relatively low air pressure used in the process. The media, when processed through a reclamation system, can be reused up to 10 times before it becomes too small to effectively remove the paint.PMB is most effective on metal surfaces, but it has been used successfully on composite surfaces after it was found to produce less visual damage than removing the paint by sanding.
New Stripping Methods
Various methods and materials for stripping paint and other coatings are under development and include:- A laser stripping process used to remove coatings from composites.
- Carbon dioxide pellets (dry ice) used in conjunction with a pulsed flashlamp that rapidly heats a thin layer of paint, which is then blasted away by the ice pellets.
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