Plywood skin can be repaired using a number of different methods depending on the size of the hole and its location on the aircraft. Manufacturer’s instructions, when available, should be the first source of a repair scheme. AC 43.13-1 provides other acceptable methods of repair. Some of those are featured in the following section.
The fabric used for the patch should be of an approved material using the cement recommended by the manufacturer of the fabric system. The fabric patch should be cut with pinking shears and overlap the plywood skin by at least 1-inch. A fabric patch should not be used to repair holes in the leading edge of a wing, in the frontal area of the fuselage, or nearer than 1-inch to any frame member.
Using the sample 1⁄10-inch thick plywood and a maximum trimmed hole size of 1½-inches, and cutting a 5:1 scarf, results in a 2½-inches round section to be patched. The patch should be fabricated with a 5:1 scarf, from the same type and thickness plywood as the surface being repaired.
Cut the edges of a plug patch at right angles to the surface of the skin. Cut the skin also to a clean round or oval hole with edges at right angles to the surface. Cut the patch to the exact size of the hole; when installed, the edge of the patch forms a butt joint with the edge of the hole.
You can use a round plug patch where the cutout repair is no larger than 6-inches in diameter. Sample dimensions for holes of 4-inches and 6-inches in diameter appear in Figure 3.
The steps for making an oval plug patch are identical to those for making the round patch. The maximum dimensions for large oval patches are 7-inches long and 5-inches wide. Oval patches must be cut, so when installed, the face grain matches the direction of the original surface. [Figure 4]
Damage that does not exceed 25 times the skin thickness (31⁄8‑inches for 1⁄8-inch thick skin) after being trimmed to a circular shape can be repaired as shown in section D-D, provided the trimmed opening is not nearer than 15 times the skin thickness to a frame member (17⁄8-inches for 1⁄8-inch thick skin).
A temporary backing block is carefully shaped from solid wood and fitted to the inside surface of the skin. A piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap is placed between the block and the underside of the skin. The scarf patch is installed and temporarily attached to the backing block, being held together in place with nailing strips. When the glue sets, remove the nails and block, leaving a flush surface on both sides of the repaired skin.
Use nailing strips to hold backing strips in place while the glue sets. Use a bucking bar, where necessary, to provide support for nailing. A saddle gusset of plywood should support the end of the backing strip at all junctions between the backing strips and ribs or spars. If needed, nail and bond the new gusset plate to the rib or spar. It may be necessary to remove and replace an old gusset plate with a new saddle gusset, or nail a new gusset over the original.
Unlike some of the other type patches that are glued and installed as one process, this repair must wait for the glue to set on the backing strips and gussets. At that point, the scarf patch can be cut and fit to match the grain, and glued, using weight for pressure on the patch as appropriate. When dry, fill and finish the repair to match the original surface.
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Fabric Patch
A fabric patch is the simplest method to repair a small hole in plywood. This repair is used on holes not exceeding 1-inch in diameter after being trimmed to a smooth outline. The edges of the trimmed hole should first be sealed, preferably with a two-part epoxy varnish. This varnish requires a long cure time, but it provides the best seal on bare wood.The fabric used for the patch should be of an approved material using the cement recommended by the manufacturer of the fabric system. The fabric patch should be cut with pinking shears and overlap the plywood skin by at least 1-inch. A fabric patch should not be used to repair holes in the leading edge of a wing, in the frontal area of the fuselage, or nearer than 1-inch to any frame member.
Splayed Patch
A splayed patch is a flush patch. The term splayed denotes that the edges of the patch are tapered, with the slope cut at a 5:1 ratio to the thickness of the skin. This may be used for small holes where the largest dimension of the hole to be repaired is not more than 15 times the skin thickness and the skin is not more than 1⁄10-inch thick. This calculates to nothing larger than a 1½-inch trimmed hole in very thin plywood.Using the sample 1⁄10-inch thick plywood and a maximum trimmed hole size of 1½-inches, and cutting a 5:1 scarf, results in a 2½-inches round section to be patched. The patch should be fabricated with a 5:1 scarf, from the same type and thickness plywood as the surface being repaired.
Glue is applied to the beveled edges and the patch is set with the grain parallel to the surface being repaired. A pressure plate of thicker plywood cut to the exact size of the patch is centered over the patch covered with waxed paper. A suitable weight is used for pressure until the glue has set. The repair is then sanded and finished to match the original surface. [Figure 1]
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| Figure 1. Splayed patch |
Surface Patch
Plywood skins not over 1⁄8-inch thick that are damaged between or along framing members may be repaired with a surface or overlay patch. Surface patches located aft of the 10 percent chord line, or which wrap around the leading edge and terminate aft of the 10 percent chord line, are permissible. You can use surface patches to patch trimmed holes up to a 50-inch perimeter, and may cover an area as large as one frame or rib space.
Trim the damaged area to a rectangle or triangular shape with rounded corners. The radius of the corners must be at least 5 times the skin thickness. Doublers made of plywood at least ¼-inch thick are reinforcements placed under the edge of the hole inside the skin. Nail and glue the doublers in place. Extend the doublers from one framing member to another and strengthen at the ends by saddle gussets attached to the framing members. [Figure 2]
Trim the damaged area to a rectangle or triangular shape with rounded corners. The radius of the corners must be at least 5 times the skin thickness. Doublers made of plywood at least ¼-inch thick are reinforcements placed under the edge of the hole inside the skin. Nail and glue the doublers in place. Extend the doublers from one framing member to another and strengthen at the ends by saddle gussets attached to the framing members. [Figure 2]
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| Figure 2. Surfaces patches |
The surface patch is sized to extend beyond the cutout as indicated. All edges of the patch are beveled, but the leading edge of the patch should be beveled at an angle at least 4:1 of the skin thickness. The face-grain direction of the patch must be in the same direction of the original skin. Where possible, weights are used to apply pressure to a surface patch until the glue has dried. If the location of the patch precludes the use of weight, small round head wood screws can be used to apply glue pressure to secure the patch. After a surface patch has dried, the screws can be removed and the holes filled. The patch should be covered with fabric that overlaps the original surface by at least 2-inches. The fabric should be from one of the approved fabric covering systems using the procedures recommended by the manufacturer to cement and finish the fabric.
Plug Patch
Two types of plug patch, oval and round, may be used on plywood skins. Because the plug patch is only a skin repair, use it only for damage that does not involve the supporting structure under the skin.Cut the edges of a plug patch at right angles to the surface of the skin. Cut the skin also to a clean round or oval hole with edges at right angles to the surface. Cut the patch to the exact size of the hole; when installed, the edge of the patch forms a butt joint with the edge of the hole.
You can use a round plug patch where the cutout repair is no larger than 6-inches in diameter. Sample dimensions for holes of 4-inches and 6-inches in diameter appear in Figure 3.
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| Figure 3. Round plug patch assembly |
The following steps provide a method for making a round plug patch:
- Cut a round patch large enough to cover the intended repair. If applicable for size, use the sample dimensions in Figure 3. The patch must be of the same material and thickness as the original skin.
- Place the patch over the damaged spot and mark a circle of the same size as the patch.
- Cut the skin inside the marked circle so that the plug patch fits snugly into the hole around the entire perimeter.
- Cut a doubler of soft quarter-inch plywood, such as poplar. A small patch is cut so that its outside radius is 5⁄8-inch greater than the hole to be patched and the inside radius is 5⁄8-inch less. For a large patch the dimensions would be increased to 7⁄8-inch each. If the curvature of the skin surface is greater than a rise of 1⁄8‑inch in 6‑inches, the doubler should be preformed to the curvature using hot water or steam. As an alternative, the doubler may be laminated from two pieces of 1⁄8‑inch plywood.
- Cut the doubler through one side so that it can be inserted through the hole to the back of the skin. Place the patch plug centered on the doubler and mark around its perimeter. Apply a coat of glue outside the line to the outer half of the doubler surface that will bear against the inner surface of the skin.
- Install the doubler by slipping it through the cutout hole and place it so that the mark is concentric with the hole. Nail it in place with nailing strips, while holding a bucking bar or similar object under the doubler for backup. Place waxed paper between the nailing strips and the skin. Cloth webbing under the nailing strips facilitates removal of the strips and nails after the glue dries.
- After the glue has set for the installed doubler, and you have removed the nail strips, apply glue to the inner half of the doubler and to the patch plug. Drill holes around the plug’s circumference to accept No. 4 round head wood screws. Insert the plug with the grain aligned to the surface wood.
- Apply the pressure to the patch by means of the wood screws. No other pressure is necessary.
- After the glue has set, remove the screws and fill the nail and screw holes. Sand and finish to match the original surface.
The steps for making an oval plug patch are identical to those for making the round patch. The maximum dimensions for large oval patches are 7-inches long and 5-inches wide. Oval patches must be cut, so when installed, the face grain matches the direction of the original surface. [Figure 4]
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| Figure 4. An oval plug patch |
Scarf Patch
A properly prepared and installed scarf patch is the best repair for damaged plywood and is preferred for most skin repairs. The scarf patch has edges beveled at a 12:1 slope; the splayed patch is beveled at a 5:1 slope. The scarf patch also uses reinforcements under the patch at the glue joints.
Much of the outside surface of a plywood aircraft is curved. If the damaged plywood skin has a radius of curvature not greater than 100 times the skin thickness, you can install a scarf patch. However, it may be necessary to soak or steam the patch, to preform it prior to gluing it in place. Shape backing blocks or other reinforcements to fit the skin curvature.
You can make scarf cuts in plywood with various tools, such as a hand plane, spoke shave, a sharp scraper, or sanding block. Sawn or roughly filed surfaces are not recommended because they are normally inaccurate and do not form the best glue joint.
Much of the outside surface of a plywood aircraft is curved. If the damaged plywood skin has a radius of curvature not greater than 100 times the skin thickness, you can install a scarf patch. However, it may be necessary to soak or steam the patch, to preform it prior to gluing it in place. Shape backing blocks or other reinforcements to fit the skin curvature.
You can make scarf cuts in plywood with various tools, such as a hand plane, spoke shave, a sharp scraper, or sanding block. Sawn or roughly filed surfaces are not recommended because they are normally inaccurate and do not form the best glue joint.
The Back of the Skin is Accessible for Repair
When the back of a damaged plywood skin is accessible, such as a fuselage skin, repair it with scarf patches cut and installed with the grain parallel to the surface skin. Details for this type of repair are shown in Figure 5. |
| Figure 5. Scarf patches, back of skin accessible |
Figure 5, Section A-A, shows methods of support for a scarf between frame members using permanent backing and gussets. When the damage follows or extends to a framing member, support the scarf as shown in section B-B. When the scarf does not quite extend to a frame member, support the patch as shown in section C-C.
Damage that does not exceed 25 times the skin thickness (31⁄8‑inches for 1⁄8-inch thick skin) after being trimmed to a circular shape can be repaired as shown in section D-D, provided the trimmed opening is not nearer than 15 times the skin thickness to a frame member (17⁄8-inches for 1⁄8-inch thick skin).
A temporary backing block is carefully shaped from solid wood and fitted to the inside surface of the skin. A piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap is placed between the block and the underside of the skin. The scarf patch is installed and temporarily attached to the backing block, being held together in place with nailing strips. When the glue sets, remove the nails and block, leaving a flush surface on both sides of the repaired skin.
The Back of the Skin Is Not Accessible for Repair
To repair a section of the skin with a scarf patch when access to the back side is not possible, use the following steps to facilitate a repair, as shown in Figure 6. |
| Figure 6. Scarf patches, back of skin not accessible |
Cut out and remove the damaged section. Carefully mark and cut the scarf around the perimeter of the hole. Working through the cutout, install backing strips along all edges that are not fully backed by a rib or spar. To prevent warping of the skin, fabricate backing strips from soft-textured plywood, such as yellow poplar or spruce, rather than a piece of solid wood.
Use nailing strips to hold backing strips in place while the glue sets. Use a bucking bar, where necessary, to provide support for nailing. A saddle gusset of plywood should support the end of the backing strip at all junctions between the backing strips and ribs or spars. If needed, nail and bond the new gusset plate to the rib or spar. It may be necessary to remove and replace an old gusset plate with a new saddle gusset, or nail a new gusset over the original.
Unlike some of the other type patches that are glued and installed as one process, this repair must wait for the glue to set on the backing strips and gussets. At that point, the scarf patch can be cut and fit to match the grain, and glued, using weight for pressure on the patch as appropriate. When dry, fill and finish the repair to match the original surface.
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